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Get a free ballcap when you spend $250 or more on merchandise! Limit 1 free ballcap per order while supplies last. Item substitutions may be made at the sole discretion of Orvis. Free ballcap is not eligible for return or exchange. Minimum $250 merchandise order total is after any/all discounts have been applied. Exclusions apply. See orvis.com/exclusions for details. This offer is valid online at orvis.com only. Free ballcap will be shown on the checkout screen and/or in the order confirmation when conditions of the promotion have been met. Not valid on previous purchases. Not valid at Orvis retail or Orvis Outlet stores. Cannot be combined with any other promotional offer. Taxes, shipping, handling, and duties do not count toward the qualifying amount. One-time use. No cash value. Offer valid through October 29, 2026 at 11:59PM ET, or while supplies last.
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Basic fly tying materials include hooks, thread, dubbing, tungsten beads, deer and elk hair, feathers, marabou, hackle, ribbing wire, head cement, and dubbing wax. From there, add materials based on what you tie most, such as marabou for streamers, deer/elk hair for dries, foam for terrestrials, and flash for baitfish patterns.
For a good all-around approach, we recommend 70 denier (or 8/0) for smaller flies and 140–210 denier (or 6/0–3/0) for bigger flies and streamers. Pick thread strength by hook size and materials: Fine thread for small hooks and stronger thread for hair, foam, and bulky wraps.
You can use sewing thread to practice techniques, but it’s not the best choice for flies you plan to fish. Fly tying thread is made to stay strong under tight wraps and holds up better on the water.
The best feathers for fly tying are high-quality, natural-looking feathers that will give your patterns a lifelike look. Choose feathers for the job: stiff where you want shape, soft where you want motion. These staples cover a lot of patterns:
Not really. Different feathers behave very differently in the water, and they’re not interchangeable. Wild “found” feathers can also be brittle, hard to work with, and may be restricted to possess in some places. It’s best to stick with materials meant for tying.
Match bead size to the hook size and bead style. The simplest rule: use a bead that slides onto the hook and seats neatly behind the eye without crowding it. Slotted tungsten beads and countersunk beads fit differently, so always check the chart or product notes for the hook size you’re tying.
Start with the recipe, then think about what the material is supposed to do:
We’ve got fly tying materials like spinning hair, strung marabou, and tungsten beads to tie flies that look right in the water and fish can’t resist. Need a buggy body on a nymph? Reach for dubbing that blends easily and stays consistent. Tying small flies? Wire and ribbing materials reinforce the body and create segmentation without adding much bulk. When you want movement, silicone legs and soft materials add a subtle pulse that brings stonefly nymphs, foam dries, poppers, and crab flies to life. For streamers, it’s all about profile, flash, and motion. Chenille and feathers help you build shape fast for buggers and leech-style streamers, while brass or tungsten beads make it easy to add weight and a pop of color. If you’re tying Spey flies, larger streamers, or saltwater patterns, look for long-flowing feathers or durable synthetics that keep their shape in current. EP fibers are a go-to when you want a baitfish look with a bit of translucence and flash. You’ll also find popular synthetics for modern patterns, plus finishing touches like coneheads and fish skulls when you want a clean head shape and a little more presence.